The tiny lakeside village of Herakleia, 90 mi/145 km south of Izmir, is as pretty as rural Turkey gets, and it's well worth spending the night there to soak up the peace and quiet. Roman and Byzantine ruins are scattered around the lower slopes of Besparmak Dagi (the Five-Fingered Mountain) and along the shores of Lake Bafa. You can take boat trips on the lake, and if it's too restful for you, buses can take you to the bright lights of Bodrum.

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