The resort town of Dalyan, Turkey, 300 mi/500 km south of Istanbul, has been saved from coastal overdevelopment by a group of environmentalists who battled successfully to have the nesting grounds of the Caretta caretta (loggerhead) sea turtle left in peace.

One of the most beautiful beaches in the world is at nearby Istuzu, and you reach it by boat or car (it's 4 mi/6 km away from town). It is strictly forbidden to remain there after sundown.

However, like other environmental paradises, Dalyan is becoming a victim of its own success, as busloads of tourists arrive daily to see the turtles, and concrete hotels threaten to take over the steamy, almost tropical little inland village.

Still, Dalyan is enjoyable in a number of ways. Boats drifting through the reedy everglades to the sea pass by the ancient city of Caunos and a number of stunning fourth-century rock tombs. Wild birds, including flamingos and herons, flourish in the swampy atmosphere, but so do mosquitoes: Take along your repellent.

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