Visitors to Mackinac island in the Straits of Mackinac (pronounced MACK-in-naw), between the Upper and Lower peninsulas about 285 mi/460 km north of Detroit, can step back in time. Autos may have made Michigan's fortune, but they're banned from this island—horse-drawn carriages, saddle horses, bicycles and walking are the only means of transportation.
Although many visitors see the island on a day trip, it's recommended to spend at least one night there. The lodging isn't cheap (though you may find some bargains in early spring and late fall), but it's worth it.
Once the throngs of day visitors depart, the island becomes even more like the 1800s: The streets are dark and largely empty, and the utter quiet is broken only by the occasional sound of clomping hooves.
Fort Mackinac is a restored military outpost from the 1700s (it once belonged to Britain) with 14 original buildings. Costumed staff provide musket- and cannon-firing programs, dramatic re-enactments and craft demonstrations.
The Grand Hotel (as its name suggests) is the island's grande dame, an immense white structure built in 1887 (it looks something like a white battleship beached on a high hillside). The huge, 660-ft-/200-m-long veranda has become such a popular attraction that the hotel charges nonguests for the privilege of sauntering on it. Each September, the hotel hosts the Labor Day Jazz Festival.
Because it's only 8 mi/13 km in circumference, a bike or horse ride around the island's flat coastal road is quite manageable, and it will take you past several sights. Arch Rock is a natural rock formation that frames an incredible view of the straits and the Upper Peninsula town of St. Ignace. You'll also be treated to fine views of the soaring Mackinac Bridge on your way around the island.
Those looking for more of a challenge can ride or hike through the hilly interior of the island. For the most spectacular views, visit Fort Holmes, a partially reconstructed British stockade perched on the highest point on the island (a carriage ride will save you some tough uphill work).
Other island attractions include the cute, though rather touristy, business district (the combined smell of horse manure and fresh fudge is one that you won't soon forget); several golf courses (including the oldest private golf club in the country); and many spectacular examples of Victorian residential architecture, especially the summer homes along East Bluff and West Bluff drives. Be sure to check out the Mackinac Island Lilac Festival if you're there in early June.
A small number of residents remain on the island year-round, but the tourism industry shuts down between December and March. Those looking to avoid the summer crowds should consider a visit in early May or October, although the weather can be chilly.
You can reach Mackinac Island by the boats that leave from St. Ignace in the Upper Peninsula or Mackinaw City in the Lower. But don't think of Mackinaw City only as a means to get to Mackinac Island. Located at the tip of the Lower Peninsula, the city is one of the centers of activity for the area that's often simply called "the Straits" by Michiganders. (Though different spellings are used—Mackinac and Mackinaw—they are pronounced the same: MACK-in-naw.)
Mackinaw City is the southern terminus of the impressive Mackinac Bridge that spans the straits. This towering 5-mi/8-km suspension bridge was constructed in the 1950s. Each year on Labor Day, it's possible to walk the full length of "Big Mac" (vehicle traffic is reduced to make room for pedestrians). Expect to have a lot of company: This is a very popular event.
Be sure to see Fort Michilimackinac (not to be confused with Fort Mackinac on Mackinac Island), which was used by both the British and the French in the 1700s. Crafts demonstrations take place in and around the restored and reconstructed buildings, and you can see archaeologists pursuing an ongoing excavation of the site during the summer. This may sound strange to say about a fortress, but the simple wooden structures are charming, especially the small Church of Ste. Anne.
There's more history at Mill Creek State Historic Park, where the remains of a sawmill built in 1790 were discovered in 1972. Excavation continues, making an interesting sidelight to the crafts demonstrations and exhibits.
If you cross over the bridge to St. Ignace in the Upper Peninsula, drop by the Father Marquette National Memorial, dedicated to the life and work of the famous missionary and explorer. St. Ignace is also the site of the Kewadin Casino, run by the Chippewa peoples.
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