This desperately poor country is extravagantly rich in wildlife and wild terrain. Its game parks are among the best in the world, and it shares with Zimbabwe two of the scenic highlights of southern Africa: Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River. But Zambia's attractions are a bit difficult and expensive to reach, which means they're unspoiled but also a challenge for independent travelers. We think Zambia is well worth the challenge, particularly if you're interested in pursuing the raw edges of the "real" Africa, and if you're keen on seeing wild animals in a truly wild setting. We do, however, think Lusaka, the capital, is best avoided: It's dreary and can be dangerous.

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