Spiffed up for the 2002 World Cup, Suwon has always been a good side trip from Seoul, which is just 20 mi/32 km to the north. Built as a fortress city during the Joseon Dynasty in the 18th century, its city walls have been restored. Allow several hours to see its gates, walls, pavilions and small lakes. It's possible to walk around almost all of the wall, but the best place to enter is at the south gate. Be sure to taste the city's famous dweji galbi (pork ribs).

Outside the city is the Korean Folk Village, one of the country's top tourist attractions. It features 250 traditional buildings brought in from every part of the country. Each represents a different Korean lifestyle, from that of the rural peasant to the aristocrat. People actually live and farm in the village using old-time techniques. There are daily performances of folk music and dance, and demonstrations of traditional crafts. The restaurants in the village (all with English menus) serve hard-to-find traditional dishes such as grilled wild boar.

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