Plan at least two nights in Yaounde. Built on seven hills, this lovely capital city (pop. 800,000) lies in the midst of a tropical rain forest. It has tree-lined avenues, fairly modern buildings and a progressive atmosphere. Visit the small (but outstanding) museum of African art. The museum, which exhibits mostly Cameroonian sculpture, is in a Benedictine monastery on the outskirts of the city. It sits on a hill, offering impressive views of the surrounding forest, and is open Thursday afternoon and weekends. The market is a good place to buy African art and souvenirs.

In nearby Batchenga, take a guided tour of the Sanaga cigar-tobacco plantation. Another day trip can be made to Nachtigall Falls, about 35 mi/55 km north of town in Obala. 125 mi/200 km east of Douala.

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