The Highlands Highway, which turns to gravel beyond Mt. Hagen, has been extended over a 9,000-ft/2,700-m mountain pass into the Tari Basin. The Tari, home of the Huli tribes (famous for their Wigmen), provides a glimpse of less-Westernized cultures than you might find in other parts of the Highlands. The well-appointed (and environmentally conscious) Ambua Lodge, which overlooks the basin from 7,000 ft/2,100 m, offers guided tours to the floor of the basin, including visits to the Huli clans. Huli men wear elaborate wigs made of human hair and paint their faces with colorful designs. Look for the deep trenches dug by clans to keep out their warlike neighbors. 350 mi/565 km northwest of Port Moresby.

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