Bornholm, Denmark, is one of the Danes' favorite vacation spots. This easternmost island (100 mi/160 km southeast of Copenhagen and just off the southern tip of Sweden) has great beaches, small fishing villages, hiking trails and bicycle routes. The marked trails in the Almindingen Forest take you past ponds and, in the spring, lilies of the valley.
The trail to the remains of Hammerhus, Scandinavia's largest castle (built in 1250 on the northern tip of the island), is gorgeous. Of special architectural note are the round churches built in the 12th century. These whitewashed stone buildings, with their 6-ft-/2-m-thick walls, doubled as fortresses during enemy attacks.
The most interesting church is at Oesterlars, outside of Gudhjem, the prettiest town on the island.
Bornholm is famous for its glass and ceramics, as well as herring—whose fans will no doubt enjoy the herring museum in Hasle. There is also a museum of art and archaeology at Ronne. We suggest at least one night on Bornholm. The island is a one-hour ferry ride from Ystad, Sweden, which is a three-hour drive from Copenhagen. There is also a car ferry from Copenhagen. http://www.bornholm.info.
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