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Romania has majestic castles, medieval towns, great hiking and wildlife, and cheap skiing of much of the 'undiscovered' former Eastern Bloc. There are signs that it's chasing the dreams of the rest of the West. Horse-drawn carts jostle for space against fast cars whose drivers are talking money on mobile phones; farm workers watch Baywatch on satellite in their medieval farmhouses. Romania is clawing itself forward, slowly and surely sloughing off the remnants of the Ceausescu era. Romania is picturesque scenery and the headlong rush to development where the money is fast and the suits Armani.

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