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Bulgaria has changed swiftly over the last decade, though in the villages you can still find folk who ride the donkey to work, eat homegrown potatoes and make their own cheese. The difference now is they wash it all down in front of a satellite TV. What the visitor encounters now is a country struggling valiantly to adapt and people who remain remarkably hospitable. Enjoy the skiing and beach resorts. Appreciate Bulgaria's dramatic mountains, haven-like monasteries, churches, mosques, Roman and Byzantine ruins, and the excellent coffee you'll be offered wherever you go.

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